How to cuff jeans: single, double and pinroll

Start with the length and the leg shape

Put on the jeans with the shoes you plan to wear before folding anything. A cuff shortens the leg, and Denimhunters, a denim reference site, gives a simple limit: the cuff should not sit higher than the top of your shoes. If the jeans are already at the right length, a thin single cuff is enough; if they are several inches too long, you need a double cuff or a hem. Knowing your inseam helps here, because it tells you how much extra length a pair actually has before you start rolling.

The leg shape decides how wide the cuff can be; our overview of types of jeans helps if you are unsure which cut you own. Straight and slim jeans take a clean single or double cuff. Tapered jeans suit a narrow cuff that shows off the shoe. Loose and relaxed jeans can carry a wider fold without looking heavy, while a narrow cuff on a wide leg looks lost. Stiff, heavy denim holds a fold for hours; stretch denim tends to slip down, so press the cuff with your fingers after rolling and check it once you have walked around.

Single and double cuffs

A single cuff is one fold of about 2 inches (5 cm), turned up to the outside. It shows the lighter inside of the denim and the hem stitching, which is part of its appeal on raw or dark jeans. Fold it evenly all the way around; the easiest check is that the inseam and outseam run straight down into the fold, so the cuff does not twist toward the front.

A double cuff folds the hem up twice, so the raw edge and stitching are hidden inside and the cuff looks tidier. It takes up more length, which makes it the usual choice for jeans that run long. For a slimmer version with less bulk, Denimhunters describes a skinny double cuff: make one fold, then turn just the top edge down so the hem is hidden. Levi's suggests a narrow single roll with tapered jeans and a double roll as the most versatile option, working with most shoes. A very deep single fold of around 4 inches (10 cm) suits heavy denim and loose fits, but it can overwhelm a shorter frame or a slim leg.

How to pinroll jeans that are wider than you want

A pinroll narrows the leg opening as well as shortening it. That makes it useful for straight jeans that are a little wide at the ankle, and less useful for skinny jeans, which have no spare fabric to fold, or truly wide legs, where it pulls the leg into an odd shape. Wear the jeans with the shoes and belt you plan to use, and do one leg at a time.

1. 01

   Pinch the inseam

   Bend down and pinch the fabric at the inside seam, right at the hem, between thumb and forefinger. Pull it away from your ankle. The more you pinch, the tighter and narrower the finished roll will be.

2. 02

   Fold the pinch flat

   Fold the pinched fabric back against the leg so it lies flat, pointing toward your heel. The leg opening should now wrap closely around your ankle without cutting in.

3. 03

   Roll up once while holding the fold

   Keeping the fold pinned under your fingers, roll the hem up about an inch. The first roll traps the fold so you can let go. If the fold slips out, start again with a firmer pinch.

4. 04

   Roll a second time

   Roll once more so the hem is hidden inside the cuff. Gentleman's Gazette suggests a finished cuff of 1 to 2 inches. Stand up and check that the cuff sits at your ankle and just shows the shoe.

5. 05

   Repeat and match

   Do the other leg, then look straight down and in a mirror. Both cuffs should sit at the same height with the fold at the same point on each ankle.

The Japanese cuff and selvedge jeans

Selvedge denim is woven on shuttle looms, which produce a finished edge that runs down the outseam, often with a colored line of thread. Cuffing shows that edge, which is why selvedge jeans are so often worn rolled. The Japanese cuff, as Denimhunters describes it, starts with a large single fold of about 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm), then a second fold just below the hem stitching, so both the selvedge and any chain stitched hem stay on view.

If your jeans are raw, meaning unwashed and rigid, keep in mind that a cuff worn in the same place every day creates a sharp crease where the fabric can wear through sooner. Denimhunters suggests changing the cuff height from time to time. Some raw denim, especially fabric sold as unsanforized, can also shrink noticeably at its first wash, so cuff rather than hem until after that wash; our guide on washing jeans covers how to handle it.

How to cuff wide leg and high rise jeans

Wide leg jeans need a wide cuff to keep their proportions. One flat fold of 2 to 3 inches, pressed so it does not flop, looks deliberate; a small roll or pinroll just bunches. Many wide leg and barrel styles are cut to be worn at full length or with a raw hem, so try the pair uncuffed first and cuff only if the length drags. If you are deciding between cuffing and a trip to the tailor, our guide on what shoes to wear with wide leg jeans explains how hem length and heel height work together.

High rise cuffed jeans are a common look with straight and relaxed cuts. The high waist lengthens the leg from the top, which leaves room for a cuff to show some ankle without the legs looking short. The cuff should still end at or just above the ankle bone. If a cuff sits halfway up your shin, the pair was probably too short to cuff in the first place.

Match the cuff to your shoes and boots

Cuffs draw attention to footwear, so choose them with the shoes. Low sneakers and loafers suit a narrow single cuff or pinroll at the ankle, usually with no show socks or with socks you are happy to show. Ballet flats and low sandals look best with a slim cuff that ends just above the ankle bone, so a little skin shows between hem and shoe and the leg does not look cut off. High top sneakers and chukka or Chelsea boots suit a slightly deeper cuff that rests on the top of the shoe. Work boots and heavy lace up boots look balanced with a deeper cuff on straight jeans, because the extra fabric matches the weight of the boot. Our guide to wearing ankle boots with jeans goes further into tucking, cuffing and covering boots.

Cowboy boots are the main exception. The long tradition with western boots is a straight or bootcut leg worn full length over the shaft, uncuffed. Cuffed jeans with cowboy boots is a newer, fashion led look that works best when the jeans are cropped or cuffed to sit just at the top of a shorter boot shaft. If the cuff lands partway down the boot, it tends to catch and bunch.